Petit black dress
You will need: gabardine; lining; fusing; 1 zipper; 3 buttons.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Middle back part – 2 details
2. Side back part – 2 details
3. Middle front part – 2 details
4. Side front part (one-piece with strap) – 2 details
5. Piping – 1 detail
6. Back strap – 2 folded details
Lining
1. Middle back part – 2 details
2. Side back part – 2 details
3. Middle front part – 2 details
4. Side front part (one-piece with strap) – 2 details
Instructions:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of upper part details (above waistline).
2. Sew middle princess seam and front princess seam. Serge seam allowances. Press middle princess seams toward left part; press princess seams towards the center.
3. Sew back princess seam leaving closure slit. Serge seams and press allowances towards center.
4. Sew side seams, serge them and press forwards.
5. Sew the zipper with its teeth hidden.
6. Fold back straps along bend line wrong side out and overstitch them along long edge. Turn straps right side out, press them and tack to side back parts’ upper edges.
7. Sew narrow stripe of the piping. Cut in into 3 pieces and form 3 loops. Tack loops to left strap end (loop corners should be on the strap, loop ends should be on edge allowance). Loop size depends on button size.
8. Sew lining details in the same ways as fabric ones. Lay lining on the dress right sides together and sew back upper edges from zipper, as well as armhole edges, straps outer edges and front neckline edges. Leave a slit for back straps back ends between marks of front straps. Cut allowances at 2-3 mm (1/8″) from stitch, cut diagonally at strap ends; slash neckline corner allowances perpendicularly to seam stopping at 1 cm (3/8″) before stitch. Slash seam allowance near crosswise marks. Fold the lining to wrong side, serge it and press. Fold the lining under and sew it to zipper braid.
9. Pin back straps upper ends under front straps ends. Try the dress, adjust straps length and sew them to front strap open edges (do not catch lining). Turn the lining under and sew t above joining seam.
10. Serge hem allowance, press it to wrong side and sew with blind stitches. Sew lining hem so that it was 1.5 -2 cm (3/4″) shorter than the dress.
11. Sew buttons on right strap end according to loops.
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